Paris Revealed Read online

  Jacobs, Marc (fashion designer) 204

  Japanese restaurants 190

  Javacheff, Christo (artist) 251

  Javel-André Citroën métro station 89

  Jewish people

  commemorative street plaques 35

  rue des Rosiers 8–9

  Joan of Arc 106

  jobs, film industry 220–1

  Joinville food market 180–2; 285

  Josephine (Napoleon’s) 136, 157–8, 246, 249

  Jourdain area 16, 220

  Journal des Débats (magazine) 62

  Journées Portes Ouvertes 234–8, 286

  Joyce, James (writer) 9, 140, 245

  Kafka, Franz (writer) 94

  Kandinsky, Wassily (artist) 244

  Keller, rue 13

  kettles, bringing your own 24

  kiosks, newspaper 36–7

  kiosquiers 36–8

  kitsch preferred to chic 151

  Lafayette, Marquis de (war hero) 87

  Lagerfeld, Karl Otto (fashion designer) 204–5, 206, 207, 210, 212

  Lamartine place, mineral water fountain 56

  Landreville, Arsène-Olivier de (engineer) 71

  Lapin Agile 169

  Latin Quarter 89

  commemorative street plaques 35–6

  Left Bank

  intellectual sewage 65

  water-themed tour 65

  Léger, Fernand (artist) 149

  Lélio (artist) 238–9, 240

  Lelouch, Claude (filmmaker) 224

  Lemoine, Serge (museum director) 247

  Lenclos, Ninon de (writer/courtesan) 125

  Lepic, rue 16

  Leroy, Louis (art critic, coined term Impressioniste) 231

  Les Halles (modern) 7, 8, 121, 123

  Les Halles (original)

  demolition 121

  Zola on 175–6, 179

  Lévy, Bernard-Henri (philosopher/socialite) 157, 173

  Lido 169

  Life magazine 126

  Ligue pour la Protection des Grillons dans le Métro Parisien (LPGMP) 78

  lime trees 45–6

  live-music venues 16

  location filming 218–23

  London, Napoleon III and 112

  Louis Blanc–Pré Saint-Gervais: métro line 7bis 93

  Louis VII, King 54

  Louis XIV, King

  and fashion industry 201–2

  sex life 157

  Louis XV, King, sex life 157

  Louis XVI, King 135, 150–1

  and the potato flower 84

  prison cell 108–9, 110

  Louis XVIII 110

  Louis-Charles (son of Louis XVI) 108–9

  Louis-Philippe, King 112

  Louvre 7, 228, 242

  and Seine 57, 59

  bombardments 111

  flood preparations 61

  Pyramid 113, 123, 222

  Louvre-Rivoli, métro station 76

  love, see hotels; romance; sex

  Lumière brothers 72

  Lutetia 102–5

  Lycée Janson de Sailly 36

  Lyon, Victor (financier/art collector) 242

  Madone, place de la, mineral water fountain 56

  Madonna (singer) 143

  Mairie d’Issy–Porte de la Chapelle; métro line 12 90–1

  Mairie d’lvry/Villejuif–Louis Aragon; métro line 7 86–7

  Mairie de Montreuil: métro line 9 88–9

  Mairie des Lilas: métro line 11 89–90

  Maison de la Radio 61

  maisons d’abattage 163, 166

  maisons de tolérance, Napoleon and 158

  Malraux, André (writer, politician) 229

  Mama Shelter Hotel 17

  Manet, Edouard (artist) 230

  Maraîchers métro station 78

  Marais 7, 8–9, 31, 34, 99, 100

  1960s demolition 121

  marchands de l’eau 53–4 Marianne (magazine), survey 3

  Marie Antoinette (wife of Louis XVI) 110, 150–1

  marketing, fashion 208–9

  markets, street

  cleaning after 39

  food 179–82

  second-hand 48–50

  see also flea

  Marronniers, Les 9

  Marville, Charles (photographer) 113

  Mary Queen of Scots 107

  Matisse, Henri (artist) 149, 232, 237

  Maupassant, Guy de (writer), Mademoiselle Fifi 289

  McCartney, Stella (fashion designer) 204, 207

  McQueen, Alexander (fashion designer) 204

  meals, ordering properly 19

  media ghetto 16

  Ménilmontant métro station 77

  menus, translated into several languages 196

  métro 69–97

  chansons 93

  commuting 3–4

  crickets 78–9

  disaster 1903 76–7

  history 69–77

  rules for conduct 95–7

  stations, Guimard’s 68, 75–6, 82, 91

  métro lines 81–93

  1: Château de Vincennes–La Défense 81–2

  2: Nation–Porte Dauphine 82

  3: Pont de Levallois–Bécon 83-4

  3bis: Gambetta–Porte des Lilas 93

  4: Porte de Clignancourt–Porte d’Orléans 84

  5: Bobigny-Pablo Picasso–Place d’ltalie 85

  6: Nation–Charles de Gaulle-Étoile 85–6

  7: La Courneuve–8 Mai 1945–Mairie d’lvry–Villejuif-Louis Aragon 86–7

  7bis: Louis Blanc–Pré Saint-Gervais 93

  8: Balard–Créteil Préfecture 87–8

  9: Pont de Sèvres–Mairie de Montreuil 88–9

  10: Boulogne-Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz 89

  11: Châtelet–Mairie des Lilas 89–90

  12: Mairie d’Issy–Porte de la Chapelle 90–1

  13: Châtillon–Montrouge–Gabriel Péri Asnières-Gennevilliers/Saint-Denis-Université 91–2

  14: Saint-Lazare–Olympiades 92–3

  avoiding rush hour 95

  directions 79–81

  literature 94

  Metternich, Princess 203

  microchips, embedded in trees 46

  middle-class families 14

  mineral water fountains 56

  Ministry of Culture 7

  Ministry of Finance 86

  Mission Cinéma 220–3, 226

  Mitterrand, François (ex-Président) 123

  MK2 Quai de Loire 131, 132, 284

  MK2 Quai de Seine 131, 284

  models, fashion 200

  Modigliani, Amedeo (artist) 239

  Molière (writer) 89

  Mona Lisa 228, 242

  Monceau parc, Haussmann and 114

  Monde, Le (newspaper) 37

  Monet, Claude (artist) 247–9

  at Giverny 247–8

  Impression: Soleil Levant 230–1, 248–9

  Monge, rue 104

  Monnaie de Paris 87

  Monroe, Marilyn (actress), as restaurant décor 151, 152

  Montaigne, Avenue 11, 89, 200

  Montesquieu, Charles de Secondat, Baron de (writer) 175

  Montmartre 13, 106, 240

  clichéd view of 15

  springs 54

  water-themed tours 65

  Montorgueil, rue 7

  Montparnasse 86

  boulevard du 14

  Montparnasse-Bienvenüe métro station 84, 86, 91

  Montreuil 220

  Montsouris parc, Haussmann and 114

  Môquet, Guy (Resistance martyr) 92

  Morisot, Berthe (artist) 249

  morning noises 139

  Motte-Picquet-Grenelle métro station 86

  Mouffetard, rue 9

  Moulin Rouge 169

  Muette, La, métro station 15

  Musée Carnavalet 30, 100–18, 177, 283

  Musée d’Orsay 10, 247, 249

  Musée de l’Érotisme 160–8, 285

  Musée du Moyen ge 283

  Musée Guimet
242

  Musée Gustave Moreau 242

  Musée Marmottan-Monet 15, 248–9, 287

  Musée Rodin 92, 242

  Nanterre 102

  Napoleon Bonaparte 110

  and Josephine 136, 157–8

  bringer of water 53

  loses virginity 135–6

  legalizes brothels 158

  memorabilia 249

  Napoleon III

  and art 230

  and Paris remodelling 111–14

  and Savoyards 253

  Nation–Porte Dauphine: métro line 2 82

  Navarin, rue de 12, 145

  Nazi occupation

  1944 uprising 83, 119

  and brothels 166–8

  commemorative street plaques 35–6

  Nemours, Le (café) 7

  Neuilly Sa Mère (film) 6

  New York Times (newspaper), readers 2

  Nina Ricci 200, 209, 210

  Nordling, Raoul (Swedish ambassador) 36

  nostalgia 99

  and sex 158–60, 162–3, 164, 173

  Notre-Dame 109, 128

  construction 106

  number plates 33

  numbers, in French, how not to confuse 256–7

  Oberkampf area 13

  Odéon 10

  Olympiades: métro line 14 92–3

  Olympic Games 1900 72

  Opéra district, Haussmann and 113

  Opéra

  métro station, design of 76

  métro station, absurdly located exits 87

  Opéra Garnier, see Opéra Orléans, Duc d’ (Philippe Egalité) 135

  Othoniel, Jean-Michel (artist) 82

  Oubari, Susan (fashion expert) 205, 208

  padlocks, Pont des Arts 130

  pain

  au levain 191

  de mie 191

  Poîlane 192

  see also baguettes

  Paix, rue de la 202

  Palais de Chaillot 128

  Palais-Royal 7

  gardens 133–6, 284

  métro station, entrance 82

  Panthéon 140

  Pantin 58

  Parc André Citroen 89, 282

  Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, see Buttes

  Parc des Princes 14, 88

  Parc Monceau 15

  Parc Royal, rue du 34

  Paris, Je t’aime (film) 90

  Paris Plage(s) 22, 41, 56–9

  Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) football fans 14, 88, 89

  Paris Match (magazine) 37, 38, 49

  Pariscope (listings magazine) 217

  Parisien, Le (newspaper), anti-Parisian commercials 1–2, 3, 40

  Parisians 1–27

  becoming one 17–18

  how not to annoy 19–27

  prehistoric 102

  spotting 6–17

  parking, preferably on pavements 42–3

  Parmentier, Antoine-Augustin (champion of potato) 84

  Parmentier métro station 83–4

  parrot joke, hoary (or whore-y) old 155–6

  passers-by, spraying

  firemen and 58

  street cleaners and 39, 66–7

  Passy métro station 86

  Paul Séjourné, rue 34

  Paul Verlaine, place, mineral water fountain 56

  Pause Café 13

  Pavée, rue 32

  pavements 29–51

  obstacles 42–4

  peeing on (by humans) 40–2

  see also parking

  pedestrian crossings, rules for using 22

  Percée, rue 31

  Père Lachaise cemetery 12–13

  périph, see boulevard périphérique 3

  permettez-moi, usage 26

  pétanque

  gladiator-style in Arènes de Lutèce 105

  during picnics at Bassin de la Villette 132

  Petit Palais 74

  Petite Ceinture (early urban railway) 70

  Petits Champs, rue des 34

  Peyrefitte, Roger (writer) 41

  Philippe Auguste, King 103

  Philippe Egalité, see Orléans

  photos, Doisneau 125–6

  Piaf, Édith (singer) 93, 143, 149, 223

  Picasso, Pablo (artist) 15, 149, 229, 232

  Les Demoiselles d’Avignon 163

  Museum 8

  Pigalle, place 11, 82, 90, 142–7, 159–69, 173, 238

  pigeons 46–8

  coops, contraceptive 48

  Pissarro, Camille (artist) 232

  pissoir, see vespasienne

  Place de la Contrescarpe 9

  Place d’ltalie: métro line 5 85

  Place Saint-Germain des Prés 31

  Plan autoroutier pour Paris 121–2

  Plan Neptune (in case of flooding) 61–4

  plane trees 45, 46

  plaster of Paris, origin of 102

  plat du jour, essential ingredient on menu 196

  Play Lounge 145

  Plumet, Charles (architect) 93

  Plumey, Alain (museum director, ex-porn

  actor) 161–5, 168

  Plumey, Madame (monteuse) 164

  political satire, kiosquiers and 37

  politicians 10

  Pompidou Centre, see Beaubourg

  Pont Alexandre III 128

  Pont de l’Alma 62-3, 65

  golden flame 88

  Pont de Levallois–Bécon: métro line 3 83-4

  Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz: métro line 10 89

  Pont de Sèvres–Mairie de Montreuil: métro line 9 88–9

  Pont de Tolbiac 64

  Pont des Arts 128–30, 284

  Pont Neuf 59, 128

  métro station 87

  Pop Art portraits 236

  porn cinema industry 161, 163–4

  port, Paris as 53–4

  Porte d’Orléans: métro line 4 84

  Porte Dauphine: métro line 2 82

  station 76

  Guimard entrance 82

  Porte de Clignancourt–Porte d’Orléans: métro line 4 84

  Porte de la Chapelle: métro line 12 90–1

  Porte de Montreuil 89

  Porte de Saint-Ouen 15

  Porte de Versailles métro station 91

  Porte de Vincennes 73

  Porte des Lilas: métro line 3bis 93

  station 90

  Plumet entrance 93

  Porte Maillot 73

  postcodes 3

  posts, anti-parking 42–3

  potato, not poisonous 83–4

  pour qui il/elle se prend?, usage of 26

  Pré Saint-Gervais: métro line 7bis 93

  pre-Haussmann Paris, photographs 113

  Prêcheurs, rue des 35

  prehistoric settlement, Bercy 101–2

  Prêtres, rue des 31

  Prévôt, rue du 31, 34

  Prison de la Santé 41

  pronunciation, fashion terms 214–15

  property buying 259, 262–78

  ads, vocabulary 268n

  De Particulier à Particulier 266–7, 287

  owners, buying from 267–78

  prostitutes

  business records 168

  Napoleon’s first amour 135

  Palais-Royal gardens 135–6

  part-time 162–3

  squeezed out 7

  Prouté, Paul, gallery 251–2, 287

  Prussian siege 1870–1 55, 56, 70, 174, 177–9

  public toilets, idiosyncratic usage 2, 40–2

  publishing houses, intellectual 10

  puns 64, 262, see also hairdressers’ names

  PSG, see Paris Saint-Germain

  Quai de la Rapée métro station 85

  Quai de Loire MK2 131, 132, 284

  Quai de Seine MK2 131, 284

  Quartier de l’Horloge 8, 121

  Queneau, Raymond (writer), Zazie dans le Métro 94, 290

  queues

  general rules for conduct 20–1

  supermarket checkouts 2

  racaille 7

  railways, urba
n 70–1

  Ramponeau, rue 236

  Ramuz, Charles Ferdinand (writer), Paris, Notes d’un Vaudois 18

  RATP (Paris transport agency), flood preparations 62

  rats, as part of Parisian cuisine 174, 177

  Réaumur-Sébastopol métro station 83

  redevelopment/remodelling 99–100, 101, 103–4

  Fournel on 115–16

  Haussmann 54, 58, 65, 101, 111–14

  recent 121–3

  redevelopment zones 234

  regional cuisines 190

  Renaissance Paris 107

  Rennes, rue de 31

  Renoir, Auguste (artist) 232, 240, 247

  rent controls, loi de 1948, abolition 260–2

  rented apartments, rules for conduct 24–5

  République métro station 83

  République square 150 RER (réseau express régional) 7, 69-70, 89

  Resistance fighters, commemorative street plaques 35

  restaurants

  and baguettes 185, 188

  authentic 127

  French cuisine, selecting 190–7

  romantic 148–52

  rules for conduct 19–20

  Revolution, French 108–9, 110

  and street-name signs 33

  sex after 157–8

  ‘revolutionary’ time 108

  revolutions, French, various 111, 112, 114–15

  rich people

  dressed down 9

  Montmartre 15

  old ladies 11

  ostentatious 9–10

  Richard, Pierre (actor) 225

  Rimbaud, Arthur (poet) 89, 236

  ring road, see boulevard périphérique 3

  Ritz bar 147–8, 284

  Rivoli, rue de 35, 133

  road signs, see street signs

  Robert Esnault-Pelterie, rue 35–6

  Rochefort, Jean (actor) 226

  Roi de Sicile, rue du 32

  Roman Paris 102–6

  romance 125–53

  or sex? 144–7

  Roquette, rue de la 12

  Rosiers, rue des 8–9

  Rousseau, Jean-Jacques (writer) 199

  royal sex 137–8, 157

  royalties, for location filming 222

  Rungis

  food market 179

  tree nursery 46

  Sacré Coeur 128

  Saint Laurent, Yves (fashion designer) 204

  Saint-Bernard, quai 57

  Saint Denis 105–6

  Saint-Denis, rue 7, 159, 160

  Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de (writer) 99

  Saint-Fargeau métro station, Plumet entrance 93

  Saint-Germain, boulevard 10, 199, 250

  Saint-Germain des Prés 10

  métro station, literary events 84

  Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois 116

  Saint-Jacques métro station 86

  Saint-Lazare

  Gare 59, 83

  métro station 91

  métro line 14 92–3